Last Moments in Kafara as Sole PCV

30 August 2010

Siaka shared with me disturbing host family news that happened during my time in Bamako most recently. Apparently, Fousseyni beat his younger brother Adaman to the point he had to be hospitalized. Had Adaman not recovered, Fousseyni's father Daouda would've alerted the authorities of his son's actions.

Continuing an intriguing series of host family developments, this morning Soumaïla had me sit down with Daouda in order to formally apologize for his mishandling properly informing me of Kadia's marriage and newborn's baptism. Daouda added that since they perceived me as part of their extended family, I should've been told earlier than I had been and they asked for me to excuse them. The last part was admittedly lost in translation for me a bit, but I think it had something to do with them offering me something for all of this, maybe a chicken? I'm not sure yet...

Rather than join Soumaïla in Marako for a meeting with Programme Sorgho representatives, he told me to stay at home and rest off the remainder of the time I'm to spend finsihing my medication.
As Kadia (the matron) oversaw a consultation with Bari, the neighborhood Fula cattle herder, and another daughter that's recently arrived from his hometown, Niono. She was wearing a traditional Fula necklace from that region, and I asked Bari if it there were any others at his place I could gift my sister back home. My interest in their customary dress sparked both Kadia and Bari's curiousity (Kadia's Fula as well).

During my afternoon nap, I had two very paranoid dreams, only to realize I'd forgotten to take my malaria meds yesterday, which normally are to blame. The first dream had me on a mad search for my sandals outside a mosque in some unknown location. I eventually was asked by two patrons what was the issue, and proceeded to ask them in Bambara! They looked at each other completely confused by whatever I'd just said and asked one another in English about what my business was there in the first place. My other dream was especially vivid as well, as I swore I could hear my host siblings outside my hut playing the fold-out piano my father sent me recently. I awoke from this dream to immediately search for the keyboard in my backpack, only to realize it hadn't gone anywhere. Indeed, this all did well to jog my memory to take that Mefloquin I forgot yesterday!

A brief visit with Mamadou's parents revealed depressing news that they've run out of food supply. Mamadou's arrival from Bamako recently was to give them some money to buy millet from the shop in town, but those funds are dwindling already.

Per Maman's recommendation, tonight I went to visit with her friends Kadiatou and Djèneba, as she believed this would do well to curb my loneliness in village.


31 August 2010

A reunion at Kafara's schoolhouse this morning was the site of incredibly political speech (lies or bending of the truth) regarding the timeline and future plans of the Spanish NGO MZC's projects in village. Slowly, villagers are becoming more and more aware of the false nature of the village representative's intentions. Women's association members haven't a clue what the dues they pay monthly are going towards, and the Spaniard representative's latest visit left them discouraged at the various project's progress (especially the most recent results of the literacy classes, to the point those which were scheduled to begin tomorrow have been postponed until that Spanish representative comes here next Monday). Before they come, the cow corral and women's garden are in desperate need of attention and preparation. The village representative is worried about this for the wrong reasons, unfortunately, as I'm gathering perhaps some of the funding isn't making it past his pockets instead of assisting the development of Kafara as intended.
Vieux Camara made an especially poignant constructive criticism about the absence of younger villagers at the meeting, which was supposed to be aimed at addressing the future of Kafara. But other viewpoints from the likes of Dramand, equivocating women to children and not to be trusted, kept me cynical and discouraged. In addition, misleading comments by the village representative about what he referred to as infighting between Kafara's doctors completely falsified what actually took place.

For once, though, I had a pleasant interaction with Dramand later this evening as his brothers and he shared iftar. They offered me ginger juice, fried bean cakes, and peanuts. Dramand asked if I knew what fasting meant and my response that I'd myself fasted a week this year and seventeen days last year surprised him (in a good way).
Since I'm not fasting anymore now due to this latest amoebic parasite, I've decided instead to observe another Muslim cultural practice for the remainder of Ramadan: grow a beard! This could get un-presentable quickly...

A huge rainstorm tonight kept me at Siaka's place for a bit, and once the worst was over, as we walked the short distance to my house, a wood structure collapsed onto nearby mud walls, splashing pools of rain water everywhere and flooding the path ahead.


1 September 2010

Another weird dream came last night, this one converging past lives into one plot line, typical of the past two year's dreams. It involved a PCV friend and my high school tutor, was set in a retail workplace I had worked before leaving home, and the subject matter of conversation was all PC related. There was a bizarre argument about whether I'd wanted to join PC from all the way back during a grade school soccer camp, and plans were discussed for my last night in Kafara.

During a morning drop-in from Sanaba, the singer from Mana who was entertainment during my mom's visit, Siaka took the liberty to say my replacement would be coming soon, my time left in Mali was short, what day I leave Mali, etc. Just another typical sharing of other people's information to others while that person is present, making him seem like a know-it-all, which ironically he doesn't know is extremely obnoxious and not a good trait.

Walking back from a visit with Djèneba and Kadiatou last night, a cow lying in the road proved for an entertaining arrival home. It swatted Kadiatou with its tail as she passed, twitching its head back, sending a spooked Djèneba back into me, almost tipping us over into a puddle. The ensuing laughter was uproarious.

After informing Soumaïla of a change in schedule for my visit to Nièngue-Coro with Maman, I sat and chat with him and his friend Nanko Camara for a little bit. As talk of my last day in Kafara creeped into the conversation, despite the poor lighting, I noticed that a single tear streak could be seen on Nanko's face. I quickly changed the subject to the beautiful star-filled night sky.


3 September 2010

The new stage of PCVs swear-in today at the US Embassy in Bamako. Ensuing rains could make this ceremony interesting. My trip to Ouélessébougou was postponed due to the weather, so I asked Kadia to come back with a Malitel sim card for me. I finally decided to hell with it, even if I'm only here for less than a month, it'll be nice to spend those final moments with reliable cell phone reception in village. Plus, the sim is only 500f cfa.

Dicko's revelation that he'd recently begun treatment for typhoid fever made me careful not to be too fatalistic about my amoebic infection anymore. It could be worse...
Last night, together with Dicko and Niang, we listened to Cuban music on my laptop and Dicko told stories of his time in Cuba, including a hilarious account of trapping fireflies in socks for lighting during power outages. Along with the sweet potato fries, Niang surprised me with ketchup!

Today Dicko began referring to his place as a hotel, finally settling upon the name hôtel de rêve (hotel of dreams). He was upset to learn of Alou's misplacing my USB drive, and promised to make him replace it for me, as he didn't believe it to be truly "lost" as Alou still claims.
I ate cow liver for the first time today, something Dicko prepared while Niang and I waited for lunch to finish cooking. A huge rainstorm passed over tonight, and before it began I literally ran to Dicko's place with the Starbuck's Sumatra blend I'd promised to bring. Dicko brewed some as we put on "Salt", a film I enjoyed very much.


4 September 2010

Word must have reached Alou quickly, because today he told me between now and when I leave Kafara, he'd repay me the 8000f cfa I paid for the USB drive he still insists he misplaced. Upon telling this to Dicko later, he said to accept no money from Alou, only a replacement USB.
Niang added a little spice to today's cow liver in the form of fried plantains. I like! Last night, Niang said soon he'd reach the three month mark of his stay in Kafara. This comment had Dicko and I in tears from laughter, having ourselves reached two years!

I'm now reachable toujours in Kafara with this new Malitel sim card, with reception found everywhere.

Close to two inches of heavy rain fell on us today, with water pooling up to my ankles in some parts and making the walk home across village more of a wade.

6 September 2010

Ah, the rains just keep coming. To borrow a Czech phrase, it's raining tractors, y'all. Two inches last night, two more this morning, ruining yet another attempt to take a trip to Ouélessébougou. The road between Kafara and Dafara proved impassable, with a trailer truck sunk in the road, and bush taxis getting stuck in the ditch trying to get by. Three were pulled lose, but one is in need of some towing. It was an unbelievable scene. I need to get to Bamako to pick up fête clothes this week, but these rains may keep me stranded, as I'm discouraged to even walk across town let alone think of leaving for another town!

Maman's friend Mam, the younger sister of Kadiatou, was joking with me all day about her plans to go visit Maman. I saw her later at market in Digan, upon which I realized I'd been pulled a fast one, but kept it going by fecitiously asking if she hadn't left yet.
Maman had been calling me all day from her Malitel number I didn't know, and without presenting herself and assuming a unrecognizable voice, pretended to be upset with my not returning any of those calls. Eventually, once I was able to buy credit, and after the last prank call finally realizing the caller's identity, I played along with the joke like I'd done with Mam, to the enjoyment of all.

Sidy arrived a couple nights ago, and we had a good chat about Maman yesterday evening. That same night, Lamine came by Siaka's to show his siblings the fête clothes Muriama got him, to the approval of all present.

During a rain storm that lasted five hours, Dicko, Niang and I took advantage of the opportunity to nap. Niang woke up with really bad feverish symptoms, violently shivering and eventually got hooked up to an IV around 17hr00.
Dicko cooked up some mixed veggies with fried potatoes, followed up by a round of Starbucks coffee brewed by moi.

Tonight, the twenty-seventh night of Ramadan, marks the most important round of observances at the mosque, where clerics will read Quranic verses for several hours.


7 September 2010

I could've sworn I woke up to the sound of Bakary's voice this morning, but I must've been dreaming again, because he's not here!

Dicko and Niang had already left for Bamako by the time I arrived at the Med Clinic this morning. Apparently, the MZC representatives wouldn't be coming today. They'll be in Bamako until next week. I'd gone primarily to collect my backpack of stuff that had been in Dicko's room mostly out of convenience, as we'd been watching films on my laptop as well as Niang's. When the battery was low, it could be charged there on site. My other chargeable items I kept the plug-ins to in that bag as well. Since I knew they'd be leaving today at some point, although I didn't expect it to be so early, and as well as I'm planning on my own trip to Bamako tomorrow (inshallah), it was time for the bag to return home.

It's that time of year again, when IER (the NGO who oversees sorghum projects) comes to Soumaïla to purchase cows for the end of Ramadan. So it goes for the past ten or so years. After a drawn out bargaining process typical of any Malian business transaction, the cow was loaded into the cab of their truck and they were on their way. They'll be back tomorrow for a second cow, and the plan is I'll be catching a ride with them to Bamako. The word is that the trailer truck and bush taxi stuck in the road between Dafara and Kafara have finally been tugged out of their respective holes, allowing a route for cars to pass once again, alhamdullilah!

Over a quick three rounds of tea with Soumaïla, I learnt the Bambara and Arabic names for last night's observances at the mosque. The 27th night of every Ramadan is considered the most important day of this significant month of the Muslim year, because it's historically believed to be the night the prophet Muhammad received the Qu'ran from Allah.

I gathered my notepad, camera, and phone for an afternoon trip to Kaba. The bike ride was muddy, with rain puddles sometimes covering entire patches of road along the way. Before I went after my phone business, I snapped several photos of the granite formation and surrounding greenery. It'd been a while since I checked my Orange sim card for messages, due to lack of reliable reception, and sure enough I had several. My replacement's postponed arrival in Kafara is apparently due to a dental check-up, and as she's at the Bureau for now, wanted to know if I would like her to bring a package she noticed had arrived for me. After writing down her phone number, I replaced the Orange sim card with the Malitel, saved her number and then returned my dad's call to let him know I'd be reachable in Bamako tomorrow.
It seems birthday wishes for my grandparents and uncle will have to be shared via email tomorrow. I tried my grandmother's house but got no answer, and a quick try of my mom's cell resulted in similar lack of contact, so I left a message to wish her parents a happy birthday.

Soon this rainy season will eclipse 1000mm of accumulated rainfall, and we're on track to have a better one than last year's. Since the first of September, it's already rained more than 150mm, with rains coming every day. This is all good news for farmers and their crops, but some of the downpours have led to structural damage of people's homes. It also creates headaches for anyone trying to make plans (see myself) of visiting Nièngue-Coro, how to get to and from Bamako, even the get-together in the works for my last night in Kafara.


8 September 2010

I made a trip into Bamako today. While waiting in the bank, I got a call from Yacouba, my supervisor, to inform me that my replacement and he were in Ouélessébougou, and would later drop her off in Kafara. On my way from Hamdallaye ACI 2000 to Daoudabougou, oncoming traffic was backed up from a monument to halfway across the new bridge! I was able to see Baba, Mamadou and my mutual Daoudabougou friend, briefly during his short stay in Bamako on break from construction work on the border of Ivory Coast.
Our ride home on Air Digan was insufferable, with people packed in like animals. Our arrival in Kafara came past dusk, and Mamadou and other passengers broke their fast before we'd even reached Dafara.

Mamadou, Soumaïla, and I chat with Emily until she went to bed, then Mamadou and I moved to Siaka's place, lying on a mat under the gwa until spitting rain began around 23hr00. During a call Mamadou made to Bassirou, filled with an exchange of playful insults, Bassirou insisted we weren't actually at Siaka's. Arriving covertly later, he surprised both Mamadou and I from behind, leading to a wrestling tussle filled with laughter from all present.

No one knows if Ramadan ends tomorrow or Friday, due to a disagreement about whether the new moon has been seen yet or not. Whenever that day happens, though, I've acquired my fête clothes and they're brilliant. Now we just have to find Soumaïla's sheep from Dad between now and then, probably tomorrow sometime.

The trip to Nièngue-Coro has been re-scheduled again (second time), because Maman's boss is on vacation and she doesn't want to be gone when a relative of his comes back in his place. So, inshallah, we'll be gone from 11-13 September.


9 September 2010

Around 3hr00 last night, Malian religious and political leaders met in Bamako and finally agreed to observe the end of Ramadan today. I was surprised by Soumaïla's fête greetings this morning, expecting them tomorrow. I'm fairly certain no other Muslim country observed this holiday today, making it seem a bit fake. How can Mali observe it before Mecca?
But the show goes on, and photos were taken with Mamadou's in matching outfits, prayer in the mosque, and cow sacrificing. No significant rain fell today, alhamdullilah, making afternoon greetings in town manageable. Sidy, Mamadou, Emily and I went to the village chief, imam, and a couple host family relatives homes before dusk fell, and we returned home to enjoy a chicken from Mamadou and cucumber salad from outside my hut.


10 September 2010

Three and half inches of rain later, my concession wall became the latest victim to this month's weather-inflicted damage that can be seen across village. This leaves me worried about whether I'll make it to Nièngue-Coro tomorrow due to impassable roads both near here and there. Market in Dialakoroba, where we're meeting her uncle, is keeping my hopes up for good luck on the road, because those who wish to sell goods at market will be coming from thereabouts.

Together with Mamadou, we went into town to finish the sheep transaction with Solo for Soumaïla's sheep from Dad. Rain soaked us on our way home. Later, we went back that direction for photos of a python that had eaten two lambs before villagers were able to capture it. Then it was off to Solo's house to eat before returning home, shortly thereafter followed by children with the sheep, and photos could be taken before Mamadou took my bike to Marako as rain started again. I told him once he'd arrived in Bamako to buy an Ivorio juice to combat what we'd expect to be a wet trip.

The women of BENKADI came to greet Emily before rain pushed us back inside. The wall to my concession is now covered with a makeshift screen of thatched grass, which is suitable for now because to try and reconstruct the mud wall again would prove futile with such consistent rainfall.

Emily's first attempt at cooking in village began with a struggle to connect the gas to the burner, but eventually we enjoyed a delicious spaghetti with tomato and onion sauce along with a chicken from Soumaïla.

A couple calls came in the evening, the first from Dad, who heard his sheep in the background. Mamadou called to tease me about his luck of finding a taxi to Bamako along the road to Dafara. I made sure he still bought that Ivorio drink despite his dry arrival. Continuing our playful exchange, he said he'd only do so if we'd set aside his portion of chicken and pasta.

I'm thankful Kafara didn't have the amount of rain that fell near Bougouni. If close to ten inches of rain spilt upon us in one foul swoop, we'd be awash!